Wednesday, March 13, 2013

Samuel Wilkeson, He Built Buffalo, by Building It's Harbor



In it’s pioneer days Buffalo was a Village without natural advantages or economic prospects. Then a harbor was built and it became the key-stone upon which the Village grew to greatness, becoming a City in 1832, and one of the largest ports in the world 75 years later.  The building of that harbor by Samuel Wilkeson and a small group of citizens, is a story of heroic vision and sacrifice unmatched in the later annals of the city. This is the first in a several part series telling that story.


BEGINNING OF BUFFALO's HARBOR 
   The war which had swept over the Niagara frontier, had impoverished the inhabitants of the little place that has since grown into the City of the Lakes. Their property had been destroyed—they were embarrassed by debts contracted in rebuilding their houses which had been burned by the enemy; they were without capital to prosecute to advantage mechanical or mercantile employments; without a harbor, or any means of participating in the lake trade, and were suffering, with the country at large, all the evils of a de-ranged currency. In the midst of these accumulated embarrassments, the construction of the Erie Canal was begun, and promised help. However distant might be the time of its completion, Buffalo was to be its terminating point, and when the canal was completed, our village would become a city. But no craft larger than a canoe could enter Buffalo Creek. All forwarding business was done at Black Rock, and the three or four small vessels that were owned in Buffalo, received and discharged their cargoes at that place. Sailing vessels at the time, unless of very light draft, had to lie a half a mile or more off port, or drop down below the Black Rock Rapids to find anchorage.
The Earliest Picture of Buffalo Known - View of Fort Erie
From Buffalo Creek - 1811, Drawn by E. Walsh 49th
British Regiment
   A harbor was then indispensably necessary at the terminus of the canal and unless one could be constructed at Buffalo before the western section of the canal was located, it might terminate at Black Rock. This was the more to be apprehended, as an opinion prevailed, that harbors could not be made on the lakes, at the mouths of the rivers. But a harbor we were resolved to have.
   The great project upon which the Village of Buffalo was staking its future had lain dormant for years. The delay was costly. With each passing day the initial upsurge of enthusiasm for the project had receded a little more. Times were hard. Buffalo was impoverished. The grim hand of economic misfortune laid itself with cold finality upon the zeal for civic improvement. One by one, seven of the nine men who had signed a petition for a $12,000 loan from the State to build the harbor, withdrew their support. All that had been done in Buffalo in the seven years since the British had put the village to the torch had accomplished little more than sheer survival. The rebuilding had been carried on steadily, but it was a grueling process and required much sacrifice. The British had been thorough. When they departed, there remained standing in the black and smoldering ruins only two stone buildings, a blacksmith shop, the jail and a frame dwelling owned by Mrs. St. John.
Black Rock in 1825
   Two years later as many buildings as had been destroyed were rebuilt. Now, in 1820, there even were a few new structures. Sam Wilkeson had built a fine house.  Charles Townsend and George Coit had built a store in which they were running a drug business and, at the same time, were venturing into shipping affairs. Others who had arrived since the first villagers straggled back to survey the embers of their homes and properties also were adding to the reconstruction. But, for the most part, the village struggled merely to stay on its feet. 
   It was little wonder, then, despite the first great wave of enthusiasm, that seven of the nine men had withdrawn as sponsors for the $12,000 loan. The money was intended to finance the building of a harbor in Buffalo. If the harbor could he built, there was a strong possibility De Witt Clinton and the Erie Canal commissioners could be persuaded to make Buffalo the Western terminus of the canal. Otherwise, The Village of Black Rock, three miles distant, aggressive, more prosperous, with more natural advantages than Buffalo, was destined to secure the great prize. If it did, Buffalo would never be more than a frontier village, a tiny settlement which the mainstream of history had bypassed! 
Judge Samuel Wilkeson
    These were the stakes and they were tremendous. But there was doubt that the project ever could be executed. Tough-minded men in the State Legislature had laid down stern conditions for the loan. It was to run for 12 years and was to be secured by twice its amount in personal pledges of money or property. If the harbor was not built, the security was forfeit. If the work was carried to successful completion, the State could accept or reject it. Should the harbor be rejected, no reimbursement was to be made. The builders could recompense themselves by charging tolls for the use of the port. It was a take-it-or-leave-it proposition. Buffalo took it. 
   With nine men behind the loan it seemed a simple matter to raise the $24,000 security. But with seven withdrawn, the whole project was a lost dream. Still, a few did not give up. Charles Townsend remained stead-fast and so did Oliver Forward. But their resources were too slim to make up the $24,000 mortgage. A third party was needed. Someone with the same bold vision, the same spirit or daring, the same tenacity of purpose. There was only one man in the village to whom they could turn. Sam Wilkeson. Wilkeson had not been among the original nine sponsors for the loan but he understood the need for harbor development. He agreed to help back the loan. With each of the three men pledging $8,000 in personal property as security, the loan was secured. 

Joseph Ellicott - Surveyor for the
Holland Land Company
   That had been a year ago and still nothing had been done. Just having the money did not solve the problem. And with each passing day their risk grew greater. Black Rock was lobbying vigorously for the canal and seemed almost a certain winner. In Buffalo itself there was doubt and opposition. So eminent a Villager as Joseph Ellicott was against them. He brusquely refused to lend the only pile driver in the area for the work. The three harbor builders were not only without a plan and men to execute it, but without even the most necessary tools. Ellicott's refusal to co-operate hurt. They decided to go over his head. Together with George Coit, Towsend’s partner, the three men wrote to Paul Busti, general agent of the Holland Land Co., asking his support for the work.
    The letter came directly to the point. Since the loan had been granted the year before, a great deal of political manipulation had taken place and the entire problem of where the canal was to be located was still open to question. The four men were frank. They admitted under present circumstances it seemed more reasonable to suppose the canal would terminate at Tonawanda Creek, not Buffalo Creek.  If it did, the harbor planned at Buffalo would be useless to the state and to the men who built it "as the business of the place would be removed to the vicinity of Grand island." But, the four men continued, not withstanding all this they intended to proceed with their plan for the building of a pier if the Holland Land Co. would back them. And would Mr. Busti, please, tell Joe Ellicott to stop guarding the pile driver as if it were made of gold and allow them to borrow it so they could get on with the work.
   It was a month later, in May, 1820, that Busti replied from Philadelphia. He was polite but uncooperative. He could not place the Holland Land Co. behind their scheme, he wrote, because experience had shown that public works carried out by private individuals or companies did not have the same assurance of being completed as those undertaken by the Federal or State Government. He even turned them down on the pile driver, claiming he had no authority over it, "Mr. Ellicott is the master to do with the pile driver as he sees fit," Busti said. But, he added, "I believe him to be too reasonable as to deny you the use of it on suitable terms."
   So that was that, and they were on their own, Joe Ellicott glowered when they approached him again on the pile driver, he was not so reasonable a man as Busti assumed. He would not, lend it and he would not rent it. They decided to build their own pile driver. The rigging was not too hard to construct, but they had no hammer. Finally, a good substitute found.  Wilkeson located an old Army mortar which had been used in the war but which had lost one of its trunnions. They broke off the other trunnion and bored two holes in the end of the mortar, a staple by which to hoist it. It worked excellently and had a driving weight of 2,000 pound. The machinery to lift the hammer was simple and cheap. A blind horse was attached to a line and raised the hammer simply by walking in a circle. Now they had both the money and the pile driver. There was only one way to find out what could be accomplished with both. That was to get on with the job.
A construction superintendent who boasted of harbor building experience was brought to Buffalo at $50 per month. His start was an expensive one. Flint stone for piers was purchased at $5 per cord. Four hundred hemlock piles, 20 to 26 feet long, were ordered at a cost of 31 cents each. Within a few week's, $1,000 of the precious $12,000 was spent and still no actual construction was under way.
    At this rate, it was easy to see the loan would never carry the project through. Again something had to he done. Wilkeson, Townsend and Forward did it. They fired the superintendent and decided to carry on the work themselves. But Townsend was ill, almost an invalid. Forward knew nothing of harbor work. Neither did Wilkeson. Yet it was Wilkeson to whom the others turned. It was an all or nothing gamble and they knew it. Their personal fortunes and the ultimate destiny of the village they believed in was at stake. 
Judge Samuel Wilkeson
   But Wilkeson had a business which consumed all his time. He had a family. He could not afford to ignore either. Wilkeson had never seen a harbor, and was engaged in business that required his un-remitted attention. But rather than the effort should be abandoned, he finally consented to undertake the superintendence.  Thus it was that the morning after his final talk with Townsend and Forward, Sam Wilkeson appeared at the site of the proposed harbor at daybreak to mark out a spot for the erection of a shanty on the beach between the creek and the lake so that the men who would work on the harbor project would not have to leave the site. He hired a few laborers, gave the necessary orders for lumber, cooking utensils and provisions. The boarding house and sleeping room were completed that same day. 

Without suitable tools, without boats, teams or scows, and neither the plan of the work, nor it's precise location settled, THE HARBOR WORK WAS COMMENCED. 

Monday, February 18, 2013

1825 - A Memorable Year for Buffalo



  The year 1825 was one of the most memorable of Buffalo's early years. In it occurred notable events, and many evidences that the future of Buffalo was bright. "Since the close of the war, no such eventful twelve-month period had ever passed over the county of Erie." A State census was taken in June, 1825, and showed the population of Erie county then to be 24,316. The village of Buffalo represented 2,412 of that total. How important one of the great events of that year was to Buffalo, is seen in the fact that during the next five years the village quadrupled itself in population. 
  First, was the trial of the three Thayers, accused of the murder of John Love on December 15, 1824, near the hamlet of North Boston, Erie county. John Love, a Scotchman, bachelor, and of some means but of roving disposition, was wont to spend part of the winter in the home of the three Thayer brothers-Nelson, Israel, Jr., and Isaac, young men ranging from twenty-three to nineteen years. They were in debt to Love, who had returned from a summer of work on the lake with considerable cash. They murdered him. 

View of Buffalo From the Light House

   In the latter part of February, two of the brothers were arrested, the third son and also the father then passed under arrest, and all were subsequently tried in Buffalo. The sons eventually confessed; and in due time, on June 7, 1825, were hanged on Niagara Square, Buffalo, "in the presence of the largest throng of people ever, assembled in the city at that time." The father was released on the morning of the execution. It was one of the noted cases of that decade, discussed far and wide throughout the United States, and the execution drew to Buffalo from 20,000 to 30,000 spectators, a greater throng than there were residents in Erie county!
   The opening of the Erie canal and the visit of Governor Clinton to Buffalo occurred on October 25, 1825. It was a great occasion for Buffalo.  Early on the morning of the 26th, the Village of Buffalo was thronged with people from a great range of the surrounding country, who had assembled to witness the departure of the first boat. To guard against the disappointment that might have arisen from accident retarding the work beyond the specified time, arrangements were made for the firing of a grand salute, to be commenced at Buffalo at a given hour and continued to New-York by guns stationed at suitable points along the whole distance. The cannon used were those with which Commodore Perry won the victory of Lake Erie, and by way of a compliment to Lafayette, the chief gunner was a lieutenant who had belonged to the army of Napoleon.
   At about 9 o'clock a procession was formed in front of the Courthouse, in which the various societies of mechanics appeared, the whole preceded by the Buffalo Band and Capt. Rathburn's company of riflemen. The procession moved through the street to the head of the canal, where the boat Seneca Chief, elegantly fitted out, was in waiting. Here the Governor and Lieut. Governor of the State, the New York delegation, and the various committees from different villages, including that of Buffalo, were received on board. Several addresses were made in the open air, and then, everything being in readiness, the signal was given, and the discharge of a thirty-two pounder from the brow of the Terrace announced that the boats were under way. 
Eagle Tavern Tavern and Other Buildings, Main Street - 1825
   There were four boats in all. The Seneca Chief of Buffalo led off in fine style, drawn by four grey horses, fancifully caparisoned, and was followed by the Superior, next to which came the Commodore Perry, a freight boat, and the rear was brought up by the Buffalo of Erie. The whole moved from the dock under a discharge of small arms from the rifle company, with music by the band and loud and reiterated cheers from the throng on shore. The salute of artillery was continued along from gun to gun across the state, in rapid succession, and in eighty minutes came back an answer from Sandy Hook - the quickest telegraphing that had been known up to that time. 
   A public dinner succeeded, and the festivities of the day were closed by a splendid ball at the Eagle Tavern, "where beauty, vieing conspicuously with elegance and wit, contributed to the enlivening enjoyment of the scene." 
The Marquis de La Fayette
   General Lafayette visited Buffalo on June 4, 1825, coming on the steamboat "Superior." He was met by a guard of honor consisting of Captain Vosburgh's cavalry, and Captain Rathbun's Frontier Guard. At Buffalo as well as elsewhere in the nation, he received "an outburst of affection praise and veneration. The village band, two detachments of militia and a committee on arrangements met him at dockside to escort him to the Eagle Tavern. The spacious three story brick structure, located on the west side of Main Street near Court, was renowned as the finest hotel in the western part of the state. An elegant platform had been constructed in front of the hotel and it was here that village officials formally welcomed the newly-arrived traveler. 
Seneca Chief  Red Jacket was there
to greet Lafayette.
  

Present among the dignitaries were Village President Oliver Forward and his arch-rival from Black Rock, General Peter B. Porter. Political animosities had been set aside for the occasion. A former congressman and a hero of the War of 1812, Porter participated in Buffalo's ceremonies because he was a leading figure in business and society on the Niagara Frontier and had considerable influence at Albany and Washington.

 Forward opened the formalities by recalling Lafayette's voluntary sacrifices in support of liberty and asking him to accept "the humble tribute of our respect, in conjunction with what has been and will continue to be proffered, not only by every citizen of the American nation, but by every friend of liberty and of mankind." 
    

The venerable Frenchman acknowledged the welcome by requesting village officials to convey "the tribute of my grateful respect to the citizens of Buffalo." At the behest of the Buffalo arrangements committee, General Porter then presented him to the people and a public reception followed. Among those who shook Lafayette's hand was the great Seneca Indian chief Red Jacket whom he had last met forty years before. A civic dinner was held the same evening as was a gala ball where the beautiful and charming Letitia Grayson Porter, member of the influential Breckenridge clan of Kentucky, joined her husband at the head of the reception line to introduce the Marquis to the guests. The next morning at six o'clock, Lafayette's party departed for Black Rock.

 It was in I825, it is stated, that the original Dutch names of streets in "New Amsterdam," or Buffalo, were changed. Main street as far as Church was originally called Willink Avenue, while above Church it was Van Staphorst Avenue; Niagara Street was Schimmelpenninck Avenue; Erie Street was Vollenhoven Avenue; Court street was Cazenove Avenue; Church street was Stadnitski Avenue; and Genesee street was Busti Avenue. The Terrace above Erie Street was called Busti Terrace, and below it Cazenove Terrace. Then many of the Indian street-names were changed, Oneida Street becoming Ellicott; Onondaga becoming Washington; Cayuga becoming Pearl; Tuscarora becoming Franklin; Mississuaga becoming Morgan. Delaware; Huron, Mohawk, Eagle, Swan, and Seneca Streets were so named originally, but Exchange was once called Crow street. It seems, however, that the buildings in streets were not designated by number for some years after street names were changed
Major Mordecai M. Noah
  On September 2nd 1825, Major Mordecai M. Noah was in Buffalo to dedicate the cornerstone that was to mark a place on Grand Island as a Refuge for the Jews of the world, to be called "Ararat'. Being that not enough boats could be secured to transport the great throngs of spectators to Grand Island for the dedication, the ceremony was held in St. Paul's Episcopol Church, with the Rev. Addison Searle, presiding. Festivities opened Sept. 2nd, "at dawn of day a salute was fired in front of the court house, and from the Terrace facing the lake. At eleven o'clock a parade moved down Main Street from the Court House to St. Paul's with city officials, bands and members of the Masonic order in line." Center of all eyes was Noah himself, a gentleman of forty, proudly erect of carriage, florid of face, keen of eye, sandy-haired who strode just ahead of the rear guard of Royal Arch Masons and Knights Templar. Over his black costume, majestically austere, were thrown rich judicial robes of crimson silk, trimmed with the purity of ermine. From his neck depended a medal of gold glistening from high embossments." The major conducted the ceremony with all the solemnity benefitting the occasion. 
Cornerstone for the City of ARARAT
   "On arriving at the church door, the troops opened to the right and left and the procession entered the aisles, the band playing the Grand March from Judas Maccabeus... On the communion-table lay the cornerstone. "On the cornerstone lay the silver cups with wine, corn and oil. "The cornerstone, was consecrated during the ceremony in both Hebrew and Episcopal rights.  Mr. Noah rose and pronounced a discourse, or rather delivered a speech, announcing the re-organization of the Jewish government, and going through a detailed Proclamation of many points of intense interest... He declared the Jewish nation reestablished under the protection of the laws of the United States. 
  Meanwhile hundreds of people lined Niagara's river bank, from Tonawanda down to Buffalo, hoping to catch a glimpse of the colorful ceremonial, which they thought was to be held on Grand Island. Many of them came up in carriages in time to hear the Inaugural speech. After the ceremony, the procession returned to the Lodge, and the Masonic brethren and the Military repaired to the Eagle Tavern and partook of refreshments. The church was filled with ladies, and the whole ceremony was impressive and unique. A grand salute of 24 guns was fired by the Artillery, and the band played a number of patriotic airs. A day or two later, everyone, including Noah, had left Buffalo and nothing further happened regarding the establishment of  the Jewish City of Ararat. (See "Noah's Grand Island")


   Buffalo in 1825 was a place of between 400 and 500 buildings and among the inhabitants were:  Four clergymen, seventeen attorneys, nine physicians, also three printers, two bookbinders, four goldsmiths, three tin and coppersmiths, seven blacksmiths, two cabinet makers, three wheelwrights and coach builders, two chair makers, one cooper, three hatters, two tanners, five boot and shoe makers, two painters, four tailors, one tobacco manufacturer. These were all master-tradesmen, some of them employers of many men. For instance, the five boot and shoe makers employed thirty-five men, and the seven blacksmiths seventeen others.
   In addition, there were fifty one carpenters and joiners, nineteen masons and stone cutters, three butchers and one brush maker. Industrially, Buffalo was even then, it would seem, giving evidence of its destiny. There were a far greater number of retail establishments than one would imagine would be, or could be, maintained in a village of 2,400. For example, there were twenty-six dry-goods stores and thirty-six groceries, numbers which seem out of all proportion to the size of the place. There was evidently much outside trade; and possibly some of the shopkeepers were looking forward with great optimism to the future, the waterway from the East being now open. 
  The village could boast of the possession of four newspapers, three printing houses, eleven places of public entertainment, a brewery, a reading room, a public library, a Masonic hall, a theatre, three church edifices, "a young ladies' school, a young gentleman's academy, and four common schools, and several other public buildings, including a brick court house, a very handsome designed building," which however "remains unfinished." The writer adds: "The buildings in the village are principally of wood, and not very compact, with the exception of Willink avenue; this street is filled up and is the most business part of the town.
  So 1825 was a busy year for Buffalo, recovering remarkably from it's ashes just 12 years earlier, already becoming a significant town in young, western America, with the best yet to come.


Friday, January 25, 2013

Buffalo's Central High School and The Free School System

Central High School 65 Court St. between Franklin and Niagara Square

   

Buffalo was the first city in the state(1838) to establish a free public school system. The Central High School (above) fought to save itself from taxpayers trying to have it abolished.


    The original High School on this site was actually in the Burt House formally occupied by General David Burt. The homestead on Niagara Square, was the handsomest house in the town at that time, surrounded by extensive grounds and lofty elms. It was exstensively remodeled for school purposes around 1853. The remodeling had, however, entailed far greater expenditure of City funds than had been estimated. So much so that many thought the city had made "a great mistake in thus establishing the Central."  However, no open or organized hostility showed itself, but a treacherous under-current of hostility ran for many years.  Imagination among some of the more gloomy taxpayers "ran riot";  "a free college or university was ominously prophesied".

    In 1858 a rebellion of students occurred, the "Courier" classing the rebellious students as "those instigated by outsiders." The "Express", was then of the opinion that "the school is a disgrace and should be closed. " However an examination of Central School Pupils made in 1859 by the principal of the Buffalo Female Academy gave "ample testimony that the teaching was thorough and systematic." Once on the subject of "economy", a resolution was offered in the Council "that the school be abolished when the contracts of it's teachers should expire," and a petition "numerously signed and praying for the abolishment of the school was presented to the Council."  From January to December of 1859, there was un-remitting effort to accomplish the utter ruin of the school. But the school was saved thanks, to some extent, to Superintendent  Warren, who drafted a bill, which became law in 1861, placing the school under the supervision of the Regents of the University of the State. A financial advantage was thus gained, and perhaps that is all the opposition sought.

     In 1870 a wing was added fronting on Franklin St. In 1885 the original Burt Building was torn down and a new brick, three story structure was built adjoining the Franklin Street wing. It served for the Central High School until 1914, when a new Hutchinson-Central High School was built on Elmwood Ave.  It was the only High School serving Buffalo until 1897 when Fosdick-Masten opened. It was torn down in 1927 for the Mahoney State Office Building.

Bird's eye view of downtown showing the Central High School, 
in the right center of the picture.


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